The Scottish Highlands Without a Tour Bus
In July and August, crowds descend on Scotland. The sunny weather, school holidays, and Edinburgh Fringe Festival form a perfect storm: attracting floods of tourists. Yes, this creates an electric atmosphere in Scotland's cities. But if you’re planning on visiting the Scottish Highlands? These crowds can ruin your experience.
Everyone has the “perfect” picture of the Highlands. Desolate terrain, windswept munros, and quiet trails with nobody else in sight. Overflowing car parks, cameras wielded from groaning tour buses, and queues for selfies on hiking trails? Not quite the vision.
Here’s how to plan a self-drive itinerary through the Scottish Highlands — without letting the summer crowds cramp your style.
Getting To Scotland
A sunny morning driving alongside a massive loch in the Scottish Highlands.
Reaching Scotland is simple. For domestic travelers, it’s a short drive from Northern England: approximately four hours by car from Manchester. For international travelers, Edinburgh Airport is connected to cities across the globe, from New York to Doha. Arrive by air, then hire a car.
If the priority is adventure, not convenience, it’s worth traveling via London. For a whimsical experience, it’s then possible to reserve a sleeper berth on The Caledonian Sleeper, completing the journey by rail. Boarding at London Euston, traveling through the night, and waking in Edinburgh the following morning, the Caledonian is one of the world’s best train journeys.
Day 1-2: Cairngorms National Park
Walking onto the sandy shoreline of Loch Morlich in the Cairngorms National Park.
Wave goodbye to Edinburgh and head for Cairngorms National Park. The first stop is the whitewashed village of Dalwhinnie: approximately a 2.5-hour drive.
Refuel with a visit to Dalwhinnie Distillery, where Scotch whisky has been distilled in copper vessels since 1897. Afterward, divert onto General Wade’s Military Road instead of continuing on the A9. This detour is a secret for a quieter experience. Along the A86, a string of peaceful hamlets hug Loch Laggan’s shoreline, with hikes to natural attractions like Pattack Falls and Creag Meagaidh.
Plan an overnight stay here, although given how small these hamlets are, accommodation is limited, so book in advance. Don’t miss Moy Country Fair in early August either; this rural event is a celebration of the traditional Highlands lifestyle, from fishing to gundog competitions.
On day two, it’s time to make a decision. The Cairngorms National Park gets busy, and glancing at Loch Morlich, it’s easy to see why. Either brave the crowds and stay overnight, or find accommodation outside the National Park. Regardless, a sunny morning on the sandy shorelines of beautiful Morlich is non-negotiable. Nearby, there are also hiking tours, taking tourists to meet the Cairngorm reindeer on foot: Britain’s only wild-roaming reindeer.
Day 3-4: Inverness
Loch Ness is located southwest of Inverness and has peaceful spots, if you know where to go.
Visiting the Highlands and not seeing its “capital” would be a tragedy. Only an hour north of the Cairngorms National Park, Inverness is the heart of Highland culture, and for good reason. The rule is simple: set off early, and beat the tour buses to its main sights.
Start with the Culloden Battlefield, where in 1746, over 1500 soldiers lost their lives in a gruesome battle that quelled the Jacobite Rising. Culloden is one of the most famous sights in Scotland (put bluntly: skipping it is akin to avoiding the Colosseum in Rome). The actual battlefield is open 24/7; arrive at 8 am for an undisturbed walk across its fields, visiting its exhibits once the museum opens at 9 am.
Located 40 minutes southwest of Inverness, Loch Ness is another unmissable attraction. Famous for its “Loch Ness monster,” its shorelines quickly become busy with tour buses. The best way to appreciate this loch is from the water — either staying overnight on a houseboat or renting a kayak for a few hours.
For accommodation, stay in Inverness itself or pick a quieter town nearby. Dornoch has a kitschy resort feel, while Ardersier is a residential village surrounded by beaches and fishing heritage. Alternatively, with its leafy setting along the River Ness, Ness Walk is a peaceful solution in Inverness.
Day 5-6: A Quieter Section of the NC500
Driving along the A832, an atmospheric route across the Scottish Highlands.
The North Coast 500 might be famous, but July and August aren’t its time to shine. Skip the crowds, and instead, cut across the Highlands on the NC500’s southernmost section: the A832.
Also known as “Destitution Road,” this route has a solemn story and was built by desperate crofters during the 1856 Potato Famine. Instead of providing them with food, landowners gave them work: building roads and walls across the harsh Highland terrain. Driving 1.5 hours between Inverness and Torridon is a chance to quietly appreciate their stories.
For breakfast, stop at The Midge Bite, a wooden cabin in the village of Achnasheen, which is popular for its “Wee Scottish Breakfast.” Stop for a second time at Glen Docherty Viewpoint, where parked vehicles overlook the A832 snaking towards Loch Maree. Then, if you’re feeling brave, stretch your legs with a challenging hike across Beinn Eighe: Britain’s first national nature reserve.
In good weather (and with plenty of mosquito repellent), it’s possible to camp in the Highlands. To stay in “civilization,” though, an overnight stay in Torridon feels like you’ve been squeezed onto the end of the world. Its backdrop of steep mountains is dotted with stray deer and rogue golden eagles, and the village overlooks the shorelines of Upper Loch Torridon. Stay at Loch Torridon Hotel, which is fittingly dramatic with its turreted towers.
Have extra time? Follow the mainland north, staying in pebbled fishing villages like Gairloch. You could brave the summer crowds on the Isle of Skye (or lace up to walk the Skye Trail). Alternatively, leave the car behind and take a passenger ferry to the Small Isles, a quieter collection of four islands with peaceful beaches.
Day 7-8: Fort William
Fort William is just a short drive from the Glenfinnan Viaduct, immortalised by the Harry Potter films.
Today is full of familiar sights. Driving from Torridon to Fort William takes approximately 3 hours, hugging Scotland’s western shoreline and bypassing valleys bursting with green undergrowth. Watch for viewpoints at Loch Cluanie and Glen Garry. Most importantly, though, look for the colossal figure of Ben Nevis: the highest mountain in the UK.
Fort William sits in the shadows of Ben Nevis. In summer, hikers can summit in four hours, and descend in three. As a strenuous, not technical route, in good conditions, Ben Nevis is a memorable challenge for a gritty beginner. Put your fitness to the test.
From Fort William, it’s also possible to experience another famous scene: Glenfinnan Viaduct. One of the most iconic landmarks in the Scottish Highlands, this 21-arch viaduct has been immortalized by the Harry Potter films. Drive 30 minutes along the A830, or take a break from the car, clambering aboard the West Highland Line and disembarking at Glenfinnan Station.
As for accommodation, Fort William itself is going to be busy. For a quieter experience, stay overnight at Inverlochy Castle; set amidst 500 acres of private lands, this 19th-century property is scenically tucked onto the foothills of Ben Nevis.
The Takeaway
Right now, there is a buzz around the concept of slow travel. Still, whether you’re a zippy sightseer, cramming dozens of attractions into an afternoon, or a “slow-burner," the Scottish Highlands deserve a thoughtful itinerary.
Don’t spend hours waiting for a parking space, or straining to hear your tour guide over a loud crowd. In the Scottish Highlands, nature is the selling point. Plan an itinerary that protects your peace.
