Dublin has a reputation as a “good time” city. With rowdy St Patrick’s crowds and cobbled streets lined with tourist pubs, it sees its share of parachute tourism — groups dropping in, dashing back out. Given that its cityscape sprawls across 118km2 (approximately the same size as Paris), it’s understandable that planning a Dublin itinerary feels challenging. Yet, if you know where to go, there is an entirely different side to the city. Here’s how to experience Dublin on foot and by pint.

Where to Stay in Dublin

The “sprawling cityscape” layout leaves Dublin with beautiful pockets of neighborhoods, including coastal Dalkey and Howth, with its cliff-top lighthouse. To experience the city, though, it’s best to stay in Dublin City Center.

The trick to experiencing Dublin on foot is setting yourself up for success. Pick a spot near the River Liffey and create the foundations for a walkable experience in Dublin. These are some of its leading hotels:

• •The Clarence is a boutique hotel with River Liffey views, situated in the cobbled Temple Bar district.
• •Brooks Hotel is a 4-star hotel within minutes of Dublin’s iconic Grafton Street.
• •The Shelbourne Dublin is a historic 5-star hotel on the edge of St Stephen’s Green. Embrace 200 years of hospitality and refined dining venues.

Local Pubs in Dublin

Nobody can discredit Temple Bar. Still, if you caught a local drinking there, you'd assume they were showing overseas visitors around or bizarrely flaunting some mysterious wealth. The average pint costs €10.

Yes, this traditional Dublin pub is infamous, with its red-painted exterior, cobbled floor, and kitschy bar. But there are other local pubs to try in Dublin.

Start the day at Slattery's, with its instantly recognizable black-and-white exterior and beloved cooked Irish breakfasts.

From midday, The Long Hall is a time capsule of the Victorian era. Don’t be dissuaded by its grocery-store-esque exterior; inside, there is an antique bar, dark-wood booths, and vintage leather seating.

The Stag's Head is another atmospheric option, marked by a stag's head above the doorway with wrought-iron chandeliers overhead. Head to McNeill's Pub at sundown; this venue has traditional Irish music, seven days a week.

Parks in Dublin

Ireland takes a symbolic approach to its parks. Each has a meaning, and with 147 parks across the city, it’s impossible to appreciate them all in a day. Here's how to tackle Dublin green spaces across two days, pairing parks with museums and tours that provide necessary context.

Day One: Park Hopping and Politics

Start at Wolfe Tone Park, named after an Irish revolutionary, and grab a cappuccino to go from its Tram Café.

From there, it's 15 minutes to the Garden of Remembrance. Adorned with a serene cross-shaped pool, this park commemorates those who lost their lives in the fight for Irish freedom. It is best combined with a visit to the Dublin GPO, the IRA stronghold during the 1916 Easter Rising, now housing a museum.

Find the Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square Park, then detour to the Little Museum of Dublin, taking its 2:30pm walking tour of St Stephen's Green.

Afterward, it’s a question of choosing your preferred view. St Patrick’s Park overlooks the historic St Patrick’s Cathedral, St Audoen’s Park has a preserved section of Dublin’s original walls, and Dubh Linn Gardens lie behind Dublin Castle.

Day Two: Phoenix Park

Phoenix Park, a 1,700-acre parkland nicknamed “Dublin's playground” and dotted with semi-tame deer, is worth a day of its own. Combine a leafy picnic with a visit to its neighboring Kilmainham Gaol, balancing Easter Rising history with respite amongst tranquil green space.

Got Extra Time?

There is something luxurious about extending a trip. Slow travel might be a controversial phrase, but spending longer — or traveling deeper into a destination — is undeniably more fulfilling.

Nearby, the Wicklow Mountains are nicknamed the “Gardens of Ireland;” ideal for hikers planning an overnight stay or a day trip. The Boyne Valley is an archaeological choice; trace stories of the High Kings of Ireland at the Hill of Tara, an ancient burial ground.

For those with a few days, take the train from Dublin Connolly Station and add a break in Belfast. There are parallels in Northern Irish history and culture, but for the most part, expect to start from scratch. Non-negotiable activities include a sunrise walk to Stormont, a black taxi tour of the murals, and a night out in the Cathedral Quarter.

Alternatively, head west. Galway, Donegal, and Kilkenny beckon. With a week to two weeks, it’s possible to tackle the Wild Atlantic Way, a 2600km road trip, which hugs the wind-battered western coastline. For blustery walks through Connemara National Park and scrambles up Croagh Patrick, it’s a scenic choice for anyone partial to exploring through a trusty pair of hiking boots.

Western Ireland is also known for its Gaeltacht, communities that still speak Irish Gaelic. Order a coffee in Gaelic at Plámás, in Galway, and get a discount — it’s an authentic way to immerse yourself in the language after learning about its politics in Dublin.

Takeaway

Dublin is where Ireland meets the world. The city has been forged as an entry point, defensive stronghold, and a bridge between international communities. Its complicated history is underpinned by deep-rooted patriotism, and for anyone wishing to understand the Irish capital, lace up those trainers. Its parklands and pubs are a map of its stories.