Italian cuisine needs no introduction. From spirals of spaghetti to bubbling tomato sauce, it’s no wonder that UNESCO listed Italian food as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It doesn’t seem to matter whether it’s a generational recipe whipped together by Nonna, or a prestigious dish from an internationally-acclaimed Michelin chef. The biggest question is where to start, and Emilia-Romagna might be the answer.

Stretching from the Adriatic Sea to the Apennine Mountains, this Northern region is nicknamed the “food valley” of Italy. It’s a deserved title: Emilia-Romagna is the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, and spaghetti bolognese.

Ready to follow your stomach? Here’s how to eat your way through Emilia-Romagna — traveling between its main cities of Bologna, Modena, and Parma by train.

Bologna

Birthplace of: Tagliatelle al ragù (aka authentic spaghetti bolognese)

Let’s start in the regional capital of Emilia-Romagna. Beneath a sea of terracotta rooftops, Bologna is a foodie’s dream getaway. Most famously, it’s the birthplace of tagliatelle al ragù (or, as many of us know it, spaghetti bolognese).

Stay at Grand Hotel Majestic Gia Baglioni, a historic property on the outskirts of an 18th-century palazzo. Its central location is ideal for first-timers, and there is an additional draw of a Michelin-recommended dining restaurant on-site: I Carracci.

From there, it’s a short walk to Quadrilatero and some of the world’s best food markets. This medieval market district is a maze of twisting alleyways and narrow walkways. From 10am, Mercato di Mezzo is the place to be. Sample regional specialties, from traditional bowls of tagliatelle al ragù to friggione, a fragrant onion-and-tomato dip that originated in nearby farming villages.

Don’t miss Le Sfogline, a mother-and-daughter-run store that has been making traditional pasta since 1996. This artisanal store closes at 2:30pm throughout most weekdays. Otherwise, for an evening meal, reserve a table at Trattoria da Me, which promises two-ingredient pasta, made the “Bologna way.”

Traveling from Bologna to Modena

Bologna Centrale is located in the city’s northern suburbs; allow 20 minutes to reach the station on foot. From the station, the train from Bologna to Modena takes only 20-30 minutes.

Modena

Birthplace of: Balsamic vinegar

Bologna might be Emilia-Romagna’s capital, but Modena has its own claims to fame. Another traditional terracotta-roofed city, it has a legacy of excellent taste: the founder of Ferrari, Enzo Ferrari, grew up here, and apparently, he ate well.

Start at Artigiani del Gusto Modena, a covered food market that serves Emilia-Romagna delicacies, including charcuterie boards laden with prosciutto di Modena. From Tuesday to Saturday, it opens from 8:30am — don’t be afraid to arrive early.

Modena has an affinity for breads, cheese, and vinegar. The city is particularly known as the birthplace of balsamic vinegar: a syrupy concoction traditionally aged for 12 to 25 years. Taste samples at the Museum of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, only a 30-minute transfer from the city center.

Other notable dishes include crescentina Modenese, a disk-shaped flatbread that is slathered with rosemary-infused butter. For sweet-toothed travelers, bonissima di Modena and bensone are local desserts to request. While for the cheeseboard lovers, the cheese producer, GranTerre Parmareggio, is also based in Modena.

For an evening meal, dine at Michelin-recommended Trattoria Pomposa or Hosteria Giusti: both showcase an artisanal approach to Emilian pasta.

For accommodation, stay at the beautiful Hotel Rua Frati 48 in Modena’s central San Francesco neighborhood. Alternatively, base yourself outside the city center, at Casa Maria Luigia.

Traveling from Modena to Parma

Modena Station is less than 15 minutes from the city center on foot. From there, it takes 30 minutes to reach Parma by train.

Parma

Birthplace of: Prosciutto di Parma and Parmesan cheese

Parma is a dark horse on the Emilia-Romagna culinary scene — or perhaps a yellow one, as its cityscape is a famous lemon ochre. The historic city is celebrated as the birthplace of prosciutto di Parma (aka, Parma ham) and Parmesan cheese. For a dedicated foodie, paying Parma a visit is a culinary pilgrimage.

Start by exploring local stores on foot: Casa del Parmigiano Reggiano is the best for cheese, while Otello1939 Formaggeria Parma has cured meats and wine. Don’t miss the Sapori & Dintorni Store, and its towering display of Parmesan.

After that hungry work, stop for lunch at Trattoria Corrieri Parma, which, no surprise, serves cheeseboards and charcuteries.

In the afternoon, book a 30-minute transfer to the Parmigiano Reggiano Museum or Museo del Prosciutto di Parma. Both dedicated to Parma’s most famous products, these museums teach visitors about the production process and reward their concentration with delicious samples.

Book an overnight stay at Sina Maria Luigia, conveniently located near the Parma Station. For an evening meal, reserve a table at Brisla Trattoria, which has been awarded a Bib Gourmand for its contemporary twists on Parma classics.

Traveling from Parma to Bologna

From Parma Station, there is a direct train to Bologna that takes an hour.

The Takeaway

Sometimes it pays to research the best new restaurants in Europe. Put simply, the global culinary scene is a whirlwind of awards, trends, and delicious bites. But across this “food royalty” trio of Emilia-Romagna cities, some of the best recipes are centuries old.

This itinerary is suited to a week, a weekend, or even a compressed day trip. Planning regional travel by train is a great way to experience Italy without the crowds. For an even quieter experience, visit in the September shoulder season (coincidentally, also the height of Emilia-Romagna’s harvest period). This period is a golden ticket for freshly picked truffles, olives, and grapes.

For cuisine, Emilia-Romagna is in a league of its own. Arrive hungry, and bring an empty suitcase for all your edible souvenirs.